Thursday, 9 October 2014

Existentialism in Paris

I have almost completed reading Tête-à-Tête, a weighty tome by Hazel Rowley about the lives and loves of Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre. It has been a constant reminder of why I love Paris, its broad boulevards, Montmartre, Saint Germain, the Isle-de-la-Cité, the atmosphere and above all, the cafés. Sartre and de Beauvoir were passionate, free-thinking Existentialist philosopher-writers and had a committed but notoriously open union that generated no end of controversy. They would hold court in Paris cafés in the mid-20th century - in particular Café de Flore and Café Les Deux Magots. 



Ros and I visited the latter on our last trip to Paris, after which I posted a review on Trip Advisor. For what its worth, here is my review: 

"So many trips to Paris, so many unfulfilled promises to myself, Les Deux Magots was on my must visit list along with Alice's Restaurant in Malibu, CA. I had read about the pre-war tense atmosphere here when such luminaries as Jean Paul Sarte, Simone de Beauvoir and Ernest Hemingway patronised the establishment. My wife and I finally got to experience the atmosphere of Les Deux Magots in the evening of 30th November. We walked along the vibrant Boulevard Saint Germain toward the cafe rubbing shoulders with Parisians and tourists alike. The cafe terrace draws you like a magnet, brightly illuminated, all ouside tables occupied, even though this was a chill November evening. With some romantic inclination and high anticipation I was expecting to walk into the pages of an Alan Furst novel....
We had made a reservation (only possible by 'phone) and pushed our way in through the revolving door. The attractive receptionist looked up as I approached her console. "J'espère que j'ai une réservation" I uttered. Her smile was enchanting. "Peux j'avoir votre nom monsieur?" she purred. I gave it and she picked up our reservation card from the desk. I looked around, gazed at the two Asian statues adorning the central pillar, saw people in animated conversation, waiters dressed in traditional attire, red leather seats and banquettes. First impressions met expectations...
We were shown to our table and presented with menus by a waiter with a sparkle in his eyes. "Quelque chose a boire ?" he asked. €17.00 later two Kronenbourg beers arrived. Just as well that I had a considerable sum in my wallet, I thought...
We started with Crème de légumes maison, a fabulous rich soup served with a dollop of sour cream and crusty French baguette. €10.50, pricey by any standard. My wife decided on Saumon d' Ecosse grillé sur la peau, courgettes à la menthe as a main course at €24.00 and I ordered Filet de bar de pêche grillé, légumes sautés at €30.00. At these prices this had better be good I muttered. Good, yes, outstanding? No. But the wonderful, crisp, chilled glass of Pouilly Fumé was delicious; €8.50 per glass. The crowning glory was dessert - Crème brûlée à la vanille, amazing creamy base with a crunchy caramel topping that really hit the spot. €9.50. The final touch was espresso cofee (€4.00) and a glass of Henessy cognac. For the price of two glasses, €29.00, I could have purchased a full bottle at home...
So, there you have it. Great atmosphere, excellent service and a bill of €148.00. The waiter shook hands with me and was effusive with thanks as I left a €12.00 tip...
Is any meal really worth that much? Probably not. Would I do it again? Probably not. Did my wife and I enjoy the experience? Damn right we did!
And a nod to Alan Furst as we reluctantly departed and headed back to our hotel..."

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