Saturday 26 April 2014

Our Trip to Medieval Rye

There is infinite pleasure in travelling by train, particularly if your journey is the 1 hour 25 minutes from Brighton to Rye, on the Sussex coast. A journey that, for several miles, hugs the shoreline from Norman's Bay, along Cooden Beach to Hastings. Shingle beach, calm sea, high tide, sea birds foraging, peace with the world for a while. My journey was with my best friend, my soul mate for 41 years, my wife Ros. There is a special contentment in enjoying her company; we share the same values, the same love of our natural environment, the same love for life and all its vicissitudes, the same love for our country, our environment... and the same delight in a visit to Rye. A visit to Rye is always full of anticipation. This wonderful, medieval Cinque Port is always full of surprises. If we did not live in Brighton, this would be our choice of domicile.

On the journey over I plugged into my iPhone and became bewitched once again by the voice of Elisabeth Schwarzkopf singing the 'Four Last Songs' (Vier letzte Lieder) of Richard Strauss. Music to calm the soul, utterly captivating.

We arrived at Rye railway station just before 11:00am. The beautiful station building was opened in February 1851.


A short walk up Market Road leads to the High Street, where the full splendour of Rye begins to unfold. Which way to go? So much to see. Ros heads for the Edinburgh Wool Mill shop and I disappear up Lion Street to my favourite Barbour stockist: The Golden Fleece.


It is not possible to visit this emporium without making a purchase. I bought a Guernsey sweater in traditional blue colour. As I browsed, my wife arrived. She found nothing of interest in the EWM shop but found a beautiful (expensive!) dress in The Golden Fleece. I guess we left happy with our new outfits.

When in Rye I always visit my favourite independent bookshop. Martello's. So, it was a major disappointment to find that the owners had retired and the shop was closed. Oh dear!

The next port of call then had to be the best fish and chip shop this side of the South Downs...


Marino's serves fish and chips. That's it. And in my opinion, the best fish and chips by a country mile. Run by a Cypriot family who go out of their way to make you feel welcome and serve up delicious light, crispy battered Cod and the best chips - hand peeled potatoes, hand cut, double cooked - sheer heaven! We enjoyed Cod & Chips, bread and butter, pot of tea for two (fabulous tea) for the princely sum of £13.90 all in. Mind you, this was a special offer for the senior citizen!

No visit to Rye would be complete without a pint of English real ale and here is the place to enjoy it:


Ye Old Bell Inn

It's old, it's fabulous, it's welcoming and you don't want to leave!

Here is Ros window shopping at 'Cordelia James' establishment (Cordelia is the mother of the author Peter James):


OK - she had window shopped, now there's more to explore!

And here are a few more pics of the medieval Rye in Sussex. If you ever have the opportunity, do come along and enjoy!




Mermaid Street



I will never tire of this beautiful old town. Ros and I will continue to enjoy its beauty for years to come... I hope. 








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