Preoccupied...

Had a wonderful day yesterday at the Eastbourne Beer Festival and I will be posting about this tomorrow. Just have not had time today...

On The Subject of Parisian Cafés...

I have no idea how many cafés there are in Paris. Certainly I have visited a great many over the years. So here is another one that you should certainly earmark for a coffee next time you visit the eternal city: Café Au Petit Fer à Cheval.

 

It is situated at 30 rue Vieille-du-Temple in the Marais, the oldest part of Paris, with its opulent palaces and mansions that date back to the time of Les Liaisons Dangereuses. While tourists flock here for culture and chic shopping, locals know the Marais more as the city's prime gay neighbourhood. Au Petit Fer à Cheval - the Horse Shoe Bar - is a friendly, cosmopolitan locale that attracts a stylish clientele, and the couple of tables out on the pavement are desperately sought out as the rue Vieille-du-Temple is the Marais' main thoroughfare. Just opposite the bar, check out La Belle Hortense, a bookshop that doubles as a winebar.

Existentialism in Paris

I have almost completed reading Tête-à-Tête, a weighty tome by Hazel Rowley about the lives and loves of Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre. It has been a constant reminder of why I love Paris, its broad boulevards, Montmartre, Saint Germain, the Isle-de-la-Cité, the atmosphere and above all, the cafés. Sartre and de Beauvoir were passionate, free-thinking Existentialist philosopher-writers and had a committed but notoriously open union that generated no end of controversy. They would hold court in Paris cafés in the mid-20th century - in particular Café de Flore and Café Les Deux Magots. 

Ros and I visited the latter on our last trip to Paris, after which I posted a review on Trip Advisor. For what its worth, here is my review: 

"So many trips to Paris, so many unfulfilled promises to myself, Les Deux Magots was on my must visit list along with Alice's Restaurant in Malibu, CA. I had read about the pre-war tense atmosphere here when such luminaries as Jean Paul Sarte, Simone de Beauvoir and Ernest Hemingway patronised the establishment. My wife and I finally got to experience the atmosphere of Les Deux Magots in the evening of 30th November. We walked along the vibrant Boulevard Saint Germain toward the cafe rubbing shoulders with Parisians and tourists alike. The cafe terrace draws you like a magnet, brightly illuminated, all ouside tables occupied, even though this was a chill November evening. With some romantic inclination and high anticipation I was expecting to walk into the pages of an Alan Furst novel....
We had made a reservation (only possible by 'phone) and pushed our way in through the revolving door. The attractive receptionist looked up as I approached her console. "J'espère que j'ai une réservation" I uttered. Her smile was enchanting. "Peux j'avoir votre nom monsieur?" she purred. I gave it and she picked up our reservation card from the desk. I looked around, gazed at the two Asian statues adorning the central pillar, saw people in animated conversation, waiters dressed in traditional attire, red leather seats and banquettes. First impressions met expectations...
We were shown to our table and presented with menus by a waiter with a sparkle in his eyes. "Quelque chose a boire ?" he asked. €17.00 later two Kronenbourg beers arrived. Just as well that I had a considerable sum in my wallet, I thought...
We started with Crème de légumes maison, a fabulous rich soup served with a dollop of sour cream and crusty French baguette. €10.50, pricey by any standard. My wife decided on Saumon d' Ecosse grillé sur la peau, courgettes à la menthe as a main course at €24.00 and I ordered Filet de bar de pêche grillé, légumes sautés at €30.00. At these prices this had better be good I muttered. Good, yes, outstanding? No. But the wonderful, crisp, chilled glass of Pouilly Fumé was delicious; €8.50 per glass. The crowning glory was dessert - Crème brûlée à la vanille, amazing creamy base with a crunchy caramel topping that really hit the spot. €9.50. The final touch was espresso cofee (€4.00) and a glass of Henessy cognac. For the price of two glasses, €29.00, I could have purchased a full bottle at home...
So, there you have it. Great atmosphere, excellent service and a bill of €148.00. The waiter shook hands with me and was effusive with thanks as I left a €12.00 tip...
Is any meal really worth that much? Probably not. Would I do it again? Probably not. Did my wife and I enjoy the experience? Damn right we did!
And a nod to Alan Furst as we reluctantly departed and headed back to our hotel..."

Tête-à-Tête

'Tête-à-Tête, the Lives and Loves of Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre' is an engrossing read. I'm about half way through. I learned that Beauvoir had a secret tryst with Jacques-Laurent Bost in 1940 at the Hotel Poirier in the Place Emile Goudeau in Montmartre. 'They loved the square, with its chestnut trees, cast-iron fountain, and rundown artist studios (including Picasso's)'.

Wait a minute, I recognised the description. The Poirier is now the Timhotel, Montmartre where Ros and I have spent two wonderful city breaks in Paris. And yes, the cobbled square hasn't changed, the chestnut trees and cast-iron fountain is still there as is Picasso's studio.

I feel as though I have entered a moment in history...

The Timhotel in Place Emile Goudeau, Montmartre - complete with chestnut trees and cast-iron fountain

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The Life of Riley

The 'life of Riley' should mean a happy life without problems or worries. It is not a euphemism for the life of Riley the cat. And so, to say that the most recent development in the tale of Riley has left me somewhat bemused is something of an understatement.

I received a 'phone call over the weekend from André, the individual who first brought the plight of Riley to my attention. Recent communications from him had indicated that Riley was cared for by the locals, contrary to what he told me at our meetings when I was on holiday in the village. Imagine therefore the confusion caused when he told me that, having canvassed opinion from other locals including the lass who works in the pub and who feeds Riley occasionally, they felt that it would be better for Riley if I re-homed him. I am meeting with André and others on the 14th October when a decision will be made.

I have explained that I do have certain reservations, not the least of which is that I would be 'stealing' Riley. How exactly would we achieve the 'lift' with locals unavoidably looking on? I further stated that if this is going to happen then I will return by car with Ros and a cat carrier. The journey takes at least 1½ hours, stressful to say the least, and Ros would sit in the back of the car, with Riley next to her, and talk quietly to him during the journey.

When I related my conversation with André to my wife she said: "Don't let your heart rule your head". I told her that when it comes to the welfare of a cat my heart will always rule my head. So be it. Another chapter in the life of Riley and one that I hope leads to a successful conclusion for Riley.

I would love to give him a permanent home. I just hope my two other cats will be so obliging...



 

Riley - volte-face

For those of you who have followed the tale of Riley - the cat who lives in Rye Harbour village - and my intention to re-home him, I received the following email from the person who led me to believe that Riley had been abandoned and left to his own fate. It has completely taken me aback as it is a complete turnaround from what I had been led to believe. I will be meeting with André on the 14th October to discuss the situation further. It has left me completely deflated, although if the content of the email is true then I have to accept that Riley will be happier in the environment that he knows, roaming as a free spirit. I will still have questions about the permanence of shelter for him when the weather gets colder. The following is the email I received:

Hi Mike, sorry to not have responded sooner, just lots of things to take care of recently.

At the moment I can tell you that Riley is well and he does seem untroubled by his life here. He is fed by the girls at the pub, and I understand he goes home at night for his dinner.

A Hungarian visitor at Harbour Lights mentioned his arrival and gave him milk and I found someone else giving him milk who lives on the other side of the pub. It seems Riley knows his way in through the window and makes himself at home there too with the owners blessing, as he seems to do wherever he goes.

I think he has the same nature as the other tabby Bengali that lived at the back of me, who was in every house and garden in the near locality. He often spent hours here and at my neighbours.

If I thought for a moment anything were untoward, I would be in touch straight away. I can only say he seems well and not at all bothered as he is always relaxed, never nervous or worried.

I don’t actually know the name or the person who owns him, and I feel you would get a negative response, as all the feedback says she doesn’t want to give him away.

I have to remind myself that the lady in question did post a “cat missing” message on the local Rye vets website, but in fact he was at the pub most of the time, where the fresh fish was plentiful.

I certainly would be in tune with you and Ros adopting him if I felt he were in any way at all compromised by his life here, as I know your feelings. As you quite rightly say he is not my responsibility, but several people, including myself, have always looked  out for him, ever since he made his presence felt.

My reservations are calculated. If you were to approach the owner with your name and address as a potential home, I am sure you’d get a refusal.  Should the hypothetical situation arise that he appeared less well and cared for in the near future, and then as it were, I were to inform you, and he disappeared, it may be obvious what has occurred.

I have purposefully not made myself known to the owner in case Riley ever needed cat-napping at some future point. Also I am concerned now, that I feel I may have painted a bleaker picture than is the reality; he is at the moment doing well roaming around all the loving locals who he treats as a cat stop on his travels.  

He does seem such a free spirit, and believe me if I thought there was something wrong I would be in touch immediately. I did initially feel that he needed a home, I feel the reality is that this was the natural conclusion of a cat lover who finds cats on their doorstep, freely feeding, curling up and going to sleep. He just seems at home wherever he finds a cat lover, willing to provide saucers of milk and bowls of food. He does the same here, which is why I wondered if he had a home. The reality is, he does, and just uses it as he pleases.

Obviously it’s not for me to say what you might do to satisfy any inferred concerns. But if you were to meet the owner (sister of owner) she would tell you he comes home every night gets fed and goes off on his rounds again. This is the local feedback. She may even wonder why there should be any concern for him. As I have said already, I have purposely not approached sister of owner, I haven’t tried to find out a name; it’s a small village, news and gossip travels quickly, and I thought it counter productive for any future plans.

I can only repeat that currently Riley is fine, and I am a bit concerned about transmitting what may well be an overreaction about a cat with a roaming spirit  to you and Ros.  

I am more than happy to have a pint and a chat should you feel you wanted to visit.

Best wishes  André

New Airport Plan Ditched

It is very welcome news that a new airport will not be built in the Thames Estuary. The decision is a victory for common sense and I hope that the decision by the Airports Commission will draw a line under any more similar proposals. Any attempt to build in the estuary, despite what Boris Johnson would have you believe, would be disastrous.

Is it not a fact that any expansion in aviation capacity may lead to the UK breaching limits on carbon emissions?